Bora Bora in French Polynesia - A trip on the pearl of the Pacific (2024)

Well, let’s face it, this is why most of the tourists come to Bora Bora Island. Many do not even see the main island and simply stay on the hotel’s motu (small white sand covered island on the coral reef). So, even though I haven’t personally had the opportunity (or the money…) to spend a night or two in one of the bungalows on stilts, I think Bora Bora is one of the best places in the world to do that at least once in your life.

Although it might cost you an arm and a leg, depending on the hotel, I think it’s an experience you really shouldn’t miss. Even I must admit that, while I’m not particularly attracted by that sort of thing, staying the night in such a magical setting, on one of the most beautiful lagoons in Polynesia, must be really something special. I would definitely suggest, if you’re planning to come to French Polynesia, that you make the effort to visit Bora Bora, and treat yourself to a luxury night on stilts. Just for a night or two!

Since i wrote this post, i had the opportunity to stay at the hotel Maitai Bora Bora for 2 nights. It was amazing and one of the cheapest place to stay on an overwater bungalow on the main island of Bora Bora.

It may sound silly but, the majority of tourists don’t really see the island of Bora Bora and I think that’s a shame. While I know you all have your own reasons for visiting the island, I really would like to encourage you to go and discover the island and see how the locals live. Staying on a motu for a week sipping co*cktails may be fun (…), but the island itself is really worth getting to know, and you are sure to meet new people and see new things if you take the time to explore a little.

If you stay on a motu in a beautiful hotel, there will most likely be a shuttle to take you to the island at different times throughout the day and evening. If you are staying on the island itself, it’s even easier and all you have to do is take yourself off and explore, go on an adventure on your own, which is really cool.

Honestly, to consider walking around the island is a little crazy, because, even though it’s flat, to go around the whole island must be around 40 km, perhaps even more. I, myself cycled two thirds of the way back, but in my defense, I also did a hike in the middle. By bike, touring around the island is easy (except for the one climb on the island). If you are not very sporty, however, I recommend that you rent an electric bicycle. For those looking for daily car rentals at the best prices, you can look here.

Even if you come to French Polynesia mostly for its lagoons and turquoise waters, it is quite possible that you might also want to do some hiking around the islands. As you probably already know, this is not a priority for most tourists nor the local government, which does little or nothing to develop tourism in this area. Just look at the few hiking trails that are easily accessible (without the need for a guide) on Tahiti Island, where the possibilities could be huge. We are a long way from the Reunion Island for example (an other French Island in the Indian Ocean where lot of hikers).

If you go to the island’s tourist office for information, you will often be told that you can’t go hiking without a guide. The objective is to make you pay as much as possible, whenever possible. I have managed to do at least 3 small walks/hikes alone without a guide, and in my opinion, you really don’t need one, I assure you. To my knowledge, the local guides are only necessary if you want to climb to the top of the island, at least as far up as you can climb as the highest mountain, Mount Otamenu (727m), which is impossible to climb.

First let’s talk about what you can do alone, without a guide, during your trip to Bora Bora. I invite you to create an account on Wikilocs. If you don’t know it yet, it’s a website that lists hikes all over the world, and more importantly their GPS tracks. It is people like you and me, who provide the GPS tracks for their service. So I’ve added mine to show you the way.

The walks below can be done without a guide, without any problems.

I haven’t found the name of this summit yet, although I have put the entire trace on the Wikilocs website. You have two options for accessing it. You can start from the antennas of Nunu’e and follow the path that goes up to the South (it is clearly visible), or you can start from the edge of the ring road and follow my trail. The path is well marked and more or less tagged. Normally, you can’t get lost.

Once on the ridge, the path begins to climb through dense vegetation and several times along the way you will have access to beautiful views of the lagoon. It’s enough to take your breath away. The end of the path finishes with a climb up a rocky peak. From above, there is one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen (apart from on the seaplane flight…). There is even a small cabin at the top. Feel free to continue a little further along the ridge after the cabin to get an even better view. From above, you will see the new Bora Bora high school, and you have unbeatable views of Mount Otemanu, with the lagoon on either side. It is really fantastic.

During the Second World War in 1942, the Americans landed on the island of Bora Bora, fearing an attack by the Japanese after the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. Fortunately, the island was never attacked, but 8 cannons remain scattered around the island…

During a recent stroll on the island, I had the opportunity to visit two cannons which I didn’t know about yet. Both are located in the northeast of the island, on the only ascent of the island, at Fiti’u’u’u Point. The area is not free (500xpf) and it give you access to a small path leading to the 2 cannons. The locations are superb. They offer a very beautiful view of the Pacific Ocean with its gorgeous colors, and Mount Otemanu. From the top, you can watch the locals/tourists having a good time canoeing or kayaking. In the distance, on the islets of fine sand, you can see the St Regis, Intercontinental and Meridian hotel complexes. Down below, you can go to a small, beautiful beach for a little relaxation and snorkeling. In my opinion, the trip is well worth it.

As I said in the introduction to the paragraph, a local guide is required to climb to certain locations, including Mount Pahia and the Anau cave at the foot of Mount Otemanu. I didn’t manage to climb either, due to lack of time, although everyone advised me to do so.

According to the information I was able to get, there is really only one guide who is able to take you on one of these climbs. You can contact Eric by email ([emailprotected]). Another agency provides guides for the walks, but I don’t know of any others ([emailprotected])

You may have come across this article while doing research for your next trip to Bora Bora, but that doesn’t mean you can afford a few lovely nights in a luxury hotel. I might be the only one who has never set foot in one of these luxury hotels, and I am still waiting for the Meridian, the Saint Régis or the Four Season to contact me…. Since i wrote this post, i was invited by the Maitai Bora Bora, a 3-star hotel on the island, very nice, with “cheap bungalow on stilts”.

Seriously, if you can afford to spend a few nights in one of these beautiful hotels, this paragraph is not for you. For those of you who stay in hostels, Airbnbs, or simply in a tent on a camp site, the very least you can do is go and have breakfast in style. During my last stay, I must admit that I had a hard time finding a hotel on one of the motus that allowed me to come as a guest for the day to eat breakfast only. Finally, I would like to point out that almost all hotels accept entrance for breakfast but only if you pay between 100 and 200€ per day!

Yes, you heard right. I obviously found it difficult to do that but did manage to find a place, thanks to the polynesian family I was staying with : the Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort. It was the only hotel I found which didn’t overcharge and which even provided a free shuttle for customers to go and enjoy a delicious breakfast with them. Of course there may be others, I didn’t call them all…

Anyway, if you want to enjoy a little luxury at less expense, it’s a good plan. For 4000 xpf (about 32€), you have access to a delicious breakfast and get to visit the hotel, which I must say, was set in a really heavenly setting. The hotel is located in the northwest of the island of Bora Bora, on the Motu Tevairoa. Make sure to call them the day before to let them know that you are coming for breakfast (40.50.76.01). They’ll give you the schedule for the free shuttle that will be picking you up. I advise you to take one of the earliest so that you can make the most of the day and take a leisurely breakfast.

From Vaitape, it will take you about 30 to 40 minutes by bike to get to the shuttle, or 10 to 15 minutes (maximum) by car. They will also explain where to take the boat to get to the hotel. Upon arrival you will soon find yourself enjoying the atmosphere with the colour of the translucent water and the bungalows on stilts in this dream setting. Breakfast is really nice, and you have a splendid view of Mount Otemanu. Take advantage of this moment to relax on the sublime beach of the motu which offers panoramic views of the highest mountain on the island. It really takes your breath away. Photographers will have a great time here.

Several clubs offer scuba diving on the island. I haven’t personally tried it, but from what I’ve heard, Bora Bora is not the greatest place for an underwater experience. For divers, I suggest you go to the Tuamotu islands (Fakarava, Rangiroa and Tikehau), or even to the Tahiti peninsula. But you probably already know that!

For those who do want to dive on Bora Bora (and there are worse places, I’m sure), you can look here to go on an exploratory dive or here for a first dive. Don’t forget to book in advance because you won’t be the only one!

This is a great way to enjoy the underwater world of the island in a much more economical way. One of the best areas I had the opportunity to visit is located in front of the Sofitel, at the southern tip of the island. This famous spot, called “the aquarium”, is actually located next to the Sofitel le Motu, the part of the Sofitel located on a small islet off the main island (search for “Motu Piti’ U’u Uta” on Google maps). To access it, you have a couple of possibilities; you can rent a kayak or a paddleboard from the Sofitel or Intercontinental to get there. If like me, you are able to stay at the Maitai de Bora Bora (which I really recommend, I’ll give you the link below) you can borrow one of the hotel’s kayaks to go there, for free.

Swimming from land, even with fins, is a bit too far, although it is possible for those very confident in the water. Once there, you can enjoy all the beauty of the coral reefs and its many fish and beautiful corals. You can even take your mask, snorkel and fins and go window-shopping underwater in just about any spot, whether on the island or on the motu. For those who prefer to be supervised and taken to the most beautiful parts of the island, you have this.

If you visit French Polynesia, this is one of the activities you must do in order to see the islands. Although, unfortunately, you probably won’t be able to do this on all the islands. The concern I have with Bora Bora and the other islands is the the feeding of the rays and sharks for tourists to see….

Everyone will have their own opinion on this subject, but it appears that almost all the service providers who take tourists out in boats on the lagoon do this… Anyway, I had already done enough trips on the lagoon on other islands that I didn’t bother to do another one on Bora Bora. But if you want an enjoyable day doing a little snorkeling, swimming in turquoise waters, eating on a beautiful white sandy beach, and seeing rays and sharks, it’s an opportunity not to be missed.

I have personally tested the services of Manu Excursion Tours who will pick you up from almost anywhere. We were at the Maitai Bora Bora and they picked us up from the hotel pontoon, and headed out to the motu Piti A’au, southeast of Bora. It’s on a day like this that you will really see the beauty of polynesian waters. It is one of the most beautiful spots I have ever seen with my own eyes. They can either take you to their “home” which is a sublime place to spend the day, or take you on an excursion around the lagoon! I was able to swim with about ten leopard rays right in front of their place, what a joy!

Some service providers offer this type of tour for half a day or a day. I’m not sure I’m convinced that it’s something worth doing as, knowing all the places you’re going to see, I think it’s better to go alone, rather than with others, and see the island by bicycle, electric bike, or even by renting a car for half a day. On the agenda: tour of the island, walk along some of the paths on the highest points of the island and a quick look at the old American cannons…

It’s up to you whether it’s worth going on a 4×4 excursion or not. If you don’t want to go to the trouble of renting a means of transport but still want to see the island, this is a good way to do it.

I am convinced that this is an activity of great value. I was honestly dazzled (words really can’t express how much) by the beauty of the lagoon and the views from the sky that you can only see on a flight on a seaplane over Bora Bora. If there was only one answer to the question “what is there to do in Bora Bora” then this would be my answer.

I was recently very fortunate to be given the opportunity to make this incredible flight. I was invited to be a guest of the only seaplane company in Polynesia: Tahiti Air Charter. In this article, I’m sharing this extraordinary experience with you: flying over the lagoon of Bora Bora and the island of Tupai.

Frankly, I’ve tried to put into words the feeling I had seeing this incredible vision however I can’t seem to get close to the feeling I had when I was 400m above the lagoon. I was like a child looking at his Christmas presents. As for the price, I’ll explain later on in this article but suffice to say it’s certainly not cheap. Having said that, I do believe it’s an option for almost everyone travelling to Polynesia. Read my article on this idyllic flight and I’m sure you’ll be convinced to increase your travel budget! For those who want more information, reservations can be made via this site. Be sure to do this well in advance, as space is limited.

There are other activities I haven’t mentioned in this article but which you can do during your visit: jet ski, kitesurf, wakeboard, parachute jump over the crystal clear waters of the lagoon (that must be amazing!), helicopter ride….

How can I conclude an article about an island that I wasn’t initially much of a fan of? I was fixated on the idea that there was too much mass tourism with tourists simply turning up and piling into the 4-star hotels, not bothering to visit the island… I’m not here to judge or criticize anyone. Even if that’s not my idea of travelling, everyone is free to do what he or she wants. However, I am allowed to give my point of view on the subject and to give my advice on how to really enjoy all that this island has to offer.

Even though you will probably be staying in a beautiful hotel on a motu, I really want to tempt you out of it and make you see something other than that. Enjoy a night or two, that’s fine, but then go and discover the island independently. Rent a car, or bicycles and soak up the atmosphere of the island and meet some of its inhabitants. Go talk to people, try to understand how they live, what they think, that’s just as important to me as seeing the island’s beautiful sights. Quite simply, in just a day or two, you will really discover the life of the island. Bora Bora remains a very beautiful island to see in my opinion !

To stay locked up in “your castle” by the sea on a motu is clearly a way of hiding your face from the reality of the island of Bora Bora. It is certainly a very touristy part of the world, but if you take the time to discover the main island, you won’t actually see so many tourists. Many foreigners stay to their hotels, and obviously you won’t see them out and about on other parts of the island… or on the few buses that take you quickly around the island…

Why not stay with some of the locals in an Airbnb? This is what I did and after living with a polynesian family for several days, my view of the island changed. I talked, discussed and debated for hours with this family, and I learned a lot. This is the sort of experience you’ll miss if you only stay in your hotel. You will not discover the ‘real’ Bora Bora and you will go home thinking that it’s simply a “paradise”. I apologize for the sanctimonious tone, I’m not trying to offend anyone, but I truly hope that you will go and see the other side of the island, the reality for the locals, and not just the make-believe, the paradise you want to see…

For Americans, I recommend that you take a flight from any major city in the United States to San Francisco. You can then take a cheap flight between SF and Papeete. Being flexible, you will find flights from 550/600$ with French Bee or United Airlines. For Canadians, I recommend the same thing. Take a flight to San Francisco from a major Canadian city and then fly from SF and Papeete. You can find flights from 750/800$ Canadian from San Francisco. The main airline companies are French Bee, United Airlines, Air Tahiti Nui and Air France.

Once there, most people fly to Bora Bora. You now have two options:

• Fly to Bora Bora with the local airline, Air Tahiti. If you’re just visiting the island, you can simply book a flight with the airline on their website (for around 45,000 xpf). Alternatively, if you’re spending a few weeks in Polynesia, there’s a good chance you’ll include Bora Bora in a multi-island tour. Here’s the article to find out all about Air Tahiti Passes in Polynesia,
• From early 2023, Air Moana will also be offering flights from Tahiti at a lower fare of around 37,000 xpf return. There are currently no Passes available with this airline.

But you should know that it is also possible to get to Bora Bora by boat from Tahiti or the neighbouring Leeward Islands. The Hawaiki Nui company used to offer low-cost trips on their cargo ships, but I understand that this has been discontinued. You can find all the information in the article on travelling in Polynesia.

Another obvious option that many people choose when travelling to Tahiti is a cruise. There’s something to suit almost every taste and budget. Some cruises include mandatory visits to the Leeward Islands, the Tuamotus and the Marquesas. Others are limited to the Leeward Islands, but in all cases the ships stop in Bora Bora (like the Paul Gauguin). As part of a bespoke itinerary, you could also hire a catamaran from Tahiti or Raiatea and consider a combination of ‘x’ islands. I have to admit, if you can afford it, it can’t be too bad to sail around all those shades of blue in a super-romantic setting on a small private catamaran!

However, there are several serious options for getting there by boat at the moment:

• Apetahi Express: a ferry that serves all the Leeward Islands from Tahiti (9,900 xpf return)
• Vaearai: another ferry to consider from Tahiti or other islands
• The Maupiti Express: This boat is back in service. Here’s what you need to know if you want to get to Bora Bora from the island of Raiatea (the only option at the moment):
  • Transfers take place on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays,
  • Departures from Bora are at 7am, except Sundays (2pm), and return from Raiatea at 4pm on Mondays and Sundays (5pm on Fridays),
  • Fares: 5400xpf one way / 10800xpf return for adults and 2700cpf / 5400xpf for children,
  • Bookings by telephone only on 40 67 66 69 or 87 740 240.
  • More info by email

This is where you can blow (or not) your travel budget while on the island. It is not uncommon to see people paying for one or two lovely nights in a hotel at 1000€ per night. Yes, it’s expensive, but luxury has a cost, especially in French Polynesia…. For those wishing to stay in a very nice accommodation on the island, I wrote a complete article on the best hotels on Bora Bora.

Unfortunately, I can’t recommend one superb hotel over another, as I have not tested any of them. The only beautiful place that I’ve been to is the Bora Bora Pearl Beach. It was promoted to me as one of the “most accessible” luxury hotels. The prices are high, I can confirm, but the setting is magical and the hotel, from what I have seen of it, is splendid. So why don’t you try it?!